Periodicos, blogs, y fuentes de noticias de Catemaco y Los Tuxtlas

The restaurant of the Hotel Catemaco recently hired a professional Mexican chef and re branded its lobby and
patio restaurant as La Rioja, and now offers Spanish cuisine.

Conceptually, the restaurant is a very welcome addition to the meager selection of flavors in Catemaco.

On our recent visit we were pleasantly surprised at the quality of the food served, and just as surprised that
the hotel has retained its inadequate previous staff and management.

We entered at 1:30 in the afternoon, chose patio seating, which allows smoking, and were promptly offered
breakfast menus. 5 minutes later we received the full menu, which is replete with choices never before seen in
Catemaco, offering a welcome variety of untypical salads, and main dishes ranging from rabbit stews to fried
trout and the customary Paella Valenciana.

My partner ordered a succulent fresh flaky snook filet (Lomo de Robalo, served with scalloped potatoes (120
pesos). I ordered the pepper filet, (Solomillo a las tres Pimientas) and received an excellent, good size filet,
cooked medium without being asked, and served with dried out baked tomatoes and buttery boiled vegetables
al diente. (110 pesos). Unfortunately the food presentation on a bare tile topped table without place mats, with
cutlery wrapped in a napkin, did not do justice to the prices.(To be fair, at a later hour, the tables were
prepared with proper table settings)

The name La Rioja, stems from the wine country in northern Spain, and may come from the Basque language
meaning "Land of Bread", which obviously never included tortillas which were served with our meals.

Although the menu offers several tantalizing desserts, we had to settle for a delicious cheese flan, because
the other items had not yet been prepared.

The lunch ended on a sour note. As is so frequent in the hotel, the credit card machine was not functioning and
we had to scramble for cash to pay the 400 peso bill.

The restaurant is located on the ground floor of the Hotel Catemaco, directly across from the central plaza.
Hours are 7 am to 11 pm. Boring common breakfast is offered with egg dishes starting at 70 pesos. The
restaurant also has an adequate wine list but stupidly serves no wine by the glass.

Our 5 star rating, based on Catemaco restaurants, not the Michelin Guide:
3+ stars for food, 1 star for service, 1 star for breakfast (which makes it one of the 3 best in Catemaco.
My elderly wife’s birthday was celebrated at Rioja by..... 6 ½ people. Anticipating the holiday rush, I reserved two tables for 1:30
p. m. in the outdoor patio. During our 3 ½ diners outside and five inside. We arrived ten minutes early to find our tables waiting as
promised; complete with linen table cloths and napkins, and wine glasses. The glasses, though not on a par with those used at
the most elegant La Casa de Los Tesoros, were a vast improvement over the dinky little ones previously found at H. Catemaco.
Said glasses, however, are apparently in short supply as when we ordered our second bottle of wine and the glasses were
appropriated replaced with clean ones, the replacements were of a short, squat variety more appropriate for dessert wine.
Proper wine etiquette was practiced with the exception that I was not shown the bottle and label prior to serving. The label was
in fact obscured by a white linen napkin wrapping the bottle; serving no practical purpose and resulting in a white napkin
unappetizingly stained by vino tinto. Both wines (Chateu Arnanton and Reserve Camenere) were pleasant, though somewhat
over priced – at least in comparison with the wino-friendly prices at La Casa de . . . (Example: Casillero del Diablo ½ bottle at
Casa de: $ 170, full bottle at Rioja: $ 490. Do the math.)

Following the consistently sage advice of my friend and mentor, Don Gordo – ooops, Don Gringo, I opted for the Solomillo de las
Tres Pimientas (pepper steak or steak au poivre). It was excellent. Though not asked, I specified rare, and it was cooked to
perfection. XX had the Lomo de Robablo, also recommended by Don Gringo, and it was excellent as well. XX  was not pleased
with the Paella and the remainder of main courses were met with varying degrees of approval. The Crèma de Cangrejo was a
disappointment to all who sampled it; the flavor of cangrejo completely masking all else. And, the Profiteroles bore not the faintest
resemblance in taste or appearance to any that I have immensely enjoyed at several choice Italian restaurants in Veracruz,
Cordoba and Puebla.

The service was very good until it was time for the check. I had to ask twice and we still waited over 20 minutes. When it did
arrive, there was an error of over $ 200 pesos in favor, of course, of the restaurant. This was quickly acknowledged, corrected
and apologized for.

Overall, I was pleased and will definitely return to try other dishes. Lamentably, considering local epicurean tastes, I do not see a
bright future in store for Rioja.

Total check (corrected) with $ 300 pesos tip: $ 2,503. Fortunately, my wife has but one birthday a year. Next year I am
considering reservations at Mangos’. (Or is that Mingos’?)

Feliz Año Nuevo!
La Casa de Los Tesoros
Artesanías  / Mexican arts & crafts
Catemaco, Veracruz, México
A review from a friend, the fool on the hill
La Rioja Restaurant
Catemaco, 28 December 2009