
| borrador |
| El turismo de la Laguna se limita principalmente a los visitantes pasear por el Malecón en la ciudad de Catemaco, contemplar hermosas vistas, interpelado por los vendedores gritando y tal vez dar un paseo en lancha para ver los monos retozando o Nanciya, y luego salen despúes de pocas horas. El turismo es estacional, centrado en semana santa, vacaciones escolares y puentes. A pesar de la increíble belleza del lago y razonable clima, la mayoría de la orilla de la laguna está poco desarrollado y característica de potreros ganado, comunidades empobrecidas, un vivero gigante de helechos, unas casas escondidas de ricos y el disneylandia del famoso disneylandia de Nanciyaga. La Laguna carece de una carretera circunferencial, y por tanto, debe ser visitado en dos viajes. Durante estos viajes, una serie de aventuras moderadas seran posible. |
| El turístico altamente viable área de la Laguna de Sontecomapan y la costa de Catemaco está sin desarrollar en gran parte debido a deplorables vías de acceso, desinterés de gran terratenientes y un gobierno ineficaz. El turismo es extremamente estacional, y tiene su ápice en semana santa, seguida de las 8 semanas de vacaciones del verano. El resto del año las playas están asoladas, y las palapas son arrastrados por el viento. Turismo en la zona se aloja por un eco-resorte al otro lado de La Barra, dos hoteles en Sontecomapan y varias empresas de "turismo ecológico" en Jicacal, El Real y La Barra. Los lugares más visitados son la Poza de Los Enanos y la playa de la Barra. Las actividades incluyen devorar mariscos, recorridos en lancha, explorar manglares, caminatas en la playa, observación de aves, el kayaking, esnorquelear, y devorar mariscos otra vez. Para informacion de hoteles, restaurantes y turismo en general, ver catemaco.info - turismo |
| Catemaco Veracruz, México |
| Catemaco tourism is going down the tubes. Originally published in Catemaco News, May 2011. Now being edited, mulled and expanded for translation. Catemaco had its hayday in the mid 1960's when the Alvarado bridge was finally completed and tourists started arriving in droves. The result was the building of most of the shabby hotels and restaurants in existence in Catemaco today. Foreign tourism got a kick in the butt when the Catemaco - Villahermosa toll road opened in the 1990's and permitted anyone heading south to bypass Catemaco. Meanwhile Catemaco wallowed in its glory and did virtually nothing to improve its infrastructure. Unnoticed by most, the southern end of Veracruz City, Boca del Rio and the beaches of Antòn Lizardo became one of the hottest real estate markets of Mexico, continuing today. Going onwards, piss-stops like Arbolillo before Alvarado, and others, have turned themselves into genuine attractions, including beach access. The city of Alvarado is now aggressively pursuing tourism, cleaning up its Malecòn and beaches, and even including banana boat rides. The same is true with Lerdo de Tejado, and its previous miserably accessible Gulf beaches. Angel R. Cabada, the first town to enter Los Tuxtlas, now has a road to its own private beach and is aggressively promoting it. In 2004, the El Tropico loop road to Catemaco (near Angel R Cabada) opened the popular beaches of San Andrès, and slowly began eroding the traffic that previously had to drive through Catemaco to get there. In 2009, the municipio of neighboring San Andrès announced the building of a highway direct to the beaches, bypassing Catemaco. As usual, they are a few years behind, but the road should be a reality within the next year. And of course, the municipio lately has been pumping videos about its gorgeous beaches. So how can Catemaco compete? The current mayor thinks it is with a Brujo Festival without brujos and commercial speed boat races on the Laguna of Catemaco. Personally I think both events were a fiasco, in the sense of not attracting more tourists than would have shown up without the publicity. But what do I know, I'm just a dumb gabacho. Tune in when I mouth off about what would help to improve local tourism. "Mañana", of course. |
| Turismo |
| Catemaco Tourism - part 1 For years Catemaco suffered with 2 rental halls to accommodate more than 100 people that wanted to congregate in Catemaco. The usual standard for less than those, was and is to block a street with some large rocks, throw up a tent, and rent some chairs. In the last few years, so called "salones sociales" have popped up all over the place. The last municipal mayor, even constructed almost half a dozen in outlying communities. OF COURSE Catemaco City itself has no social hall! IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT CATEMACO CITY CONSTRUCTS A "SALON SOCIAL" FOR ITS INHABITANTS . Actually, to hell with the inhabitants who are accustomed to stand for hours in the rain, cold or heat to listen to politicians before receiving their hand outs. TO IMPROVE TOURISM IN CATEMACO - THE CITY NEEDS A CONVENTION CENTER. Most tourists pass through Catemaco for a few hours to see monkeys and leave their diapers. Percentage wise only a few overnight in the city. The only locale making a minor effort to attract the convention trade is La Finca, which annually attracts small groups to its own "salon social" Catemaco includes about 200 hotel rooms in its repertoire of more than 500, that are suitable for conventioneers. Drawing any substantial convention with a one or 2 night stay, would do the equivalent of 100 tourbuses. Unfortunately over the years, Catemaco City has screwed itself by allowing private interests to occupy its prime city properties on the Malecon. There is almost nothing suitable available. Here are some suggestions that would require a government with guts and willingness to do some long term planning (Virtually impossible in the political setup of Catemaco and Mexico). 1) Land on La Punta could be expropriated to construct a Convention Center. 2) The private "tianguis" (commercial weekly flea market) on Ave. Carranza could be bought, because the now owners are dying of hunger since the advent of Walmart and others in Los Tuxtlas. 3) Best of all - The hidden, seasonally submerged peninsula in front of Mantilla and Boettiger could be expropriated, filled in and turned into a Convention Center for both locals and visitors. Of course, Catemaco does not have the resources to do any of the above. But it could originate a long term debt, same as was used by previous mayors, not to improve Catemaco, but to enrich their personal portfolios. File this under "wishful thinking about Catemaco." |
| Catemaco Tourism - part 2 A few concerned tourists have asked me what there is to do in Catemaco when the weather is nasty. My usual response is to drive to Veracruz City or Cancun. Catemaco desperately needs some venues to keep the tourists that DO arrive in the city for more than a few hours: Here are some suggestions that are not new but have variously been discussed locally. 1) A small museum focusing on brujos and local folklore Ideal location: on one of the plazuelas of the Malecòn. 2) A playground for visiting children. Ideal location: One of the properties on the Malecon given away by the last presidente (mayor). 3. A zoo Ideal location: Pipiapan and its existing "Parque de Fauna y Flora" 4. A nature garden Ideal location: the river island below the bridge of Catemaco 5) An aviary or butterfly garden Ideal location: El Azuzul swamp, which unfortunately is now being filled in 6) A daytime hang out Ideal location: the central park of Catemaco. (Because of its attitude and pricing, the principal hotel chases more tourists away than it attracts) 7) a nighttime hangout Ideal location: see above 8) A youth center To keep the increasing number of NiNis, friends and young tourists off the street Ideal location: center of Catemaco Don't get me started on improving hotels and restaurants. That is another part! |
| Catemaco Tourism - part 3 Catemaco is the next best thing to not getting there from here. Only one highway connects Catemaco to the rest of Mexico. Lately, most of the time, that federal road from the 1950's, two lanes, mostly without curbs, has been in good shape. Unfortunately the highway is plagued by more than 100 nasty topes, both north and south of Catemaco, and personally, if I did not have to, I would think twice about returning to Catemaco. IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT THE MEXICAN FEDERAL GOVERNMENT IMPROVES ACCESS FOR 500 THOUSAND INHABITANTS AND POSSIBLY A MILLION TOURISTS TO CATEMACO AND LOS TUXLAS. Aside from getting rid of the ridiculously excessive number of topes on the road from Veracruz , the highway urgently needs to be three or four laned to reduce a 100 mile trip to 2 hours instead of the current 3+ hours. The recently announced toll road from Isla to San Andrès is a farce. Because of annual floods and washouts, the existing federal highway from Isla to Santiago has been and is a nightmare in the 9 years that I have traveled the road. Replacing it with a toll road instead of fixing the very lightly traveled only direct connector to central Mexico is a stupid idea and a waste of money Nevertheless, if they do build it, it will be welcome. Usually toll roads are federal. In this case it may be a state road. Both accesses to the north and south of Catemaco are annually destroyed by washouts, floods and destroyed bridges. Usually the duration is a day or two, but nevertheless this is another reason for knowledgable drivers to avoid highway 180 and Catemaco during the rainy season. The responsibility for the federal roads is with federal diputados (congressmen) and senators from Veracruz. None of which have been worth a pound of the snails extracted from the Catemaco Lake. The municipal government of Catemaco or the state of Veracruz have none but suggestive powers. I have no suggestions aside from the customary pressure politics by those affected on all levels, including tourists, residents, private, municipal and state agencies to keep demanding a functional road system. |
| Catemaco Tourism - part 4 Catemaco's municipal budget is too strapped to cover its basic necessities and cannot afford significant promotional expenses. But, Catemaco generates an incredible amount of free national and international publicity, mostly related to brujos (witches), the incredible beauty of much of the surrounding Sierra de Los Tuxtlas and the disneyesque nature park of Nanciyaga. In addition the state of Veracruz, runs, funds or supports yearly promotions of specific events. There is no functional local chamber of commerce, and private commercial advertising is limited to a few hotel websites. Rarely do hotels advertise outside the area. The only one actively doing so is Prashanti, a lakeside resort, which from a shabby unknown upstart, has become a financial success. Catemaco NEEDS a functional local chamber of commerce or hotel association, both to organize group advertising and to be a counterweight to some of the incredible stupidities that local politicians permit to happen in the touristic areas. The best promotion is word of mouth from visitors returning home. And the only way that "word" will be good, will be if it comes from a happy tourist. And I hear and read too many negative comments. a) the local hungaros (gypsies) have multiplied like rabbits, and the recent surprising growth in census figures is possibly related to the number of shills on the Malecon who attack those driving into Catemaco in swarms of motorbikes and peddlars. Their numbers and annoyances MUST be controlled. Eliminating the shills is politically impossible, and a few hungaras do dress up the Malecòn. b) the garbage strewn shores of the Malecòn, complete with dying birds, heaps of trash and mosquito motels annoy any visitor but, apparently not locals. The local tour boat operators MUST shoulder most of the burden to keep the beaches clean, instead of an annual political cleanup. And a city inspector should rouse them to do so on a daily basis. c) there are only about 4 city blocks that dominate the visitor presence. And they are a dangerous and unattractive 4 blocks. Most of the sidewalks are physically damaged or just plain stupidly constructed. Much of the sidewalks is encumbered by merchandise intruding from the neighboring shabby shops and stalls., forcing tourists to walk single file or having to walk in the street. Catemaco needs a city inspector to regularly address these issues. d) the Malecòn is clearly marked "No Parking" on its shore side. Most of the year that signage is ignored and traffic cops are absent, too busy collecting mordidas on Ave. Carranza, the main street leading into town. Meanwhile drivers face a very uncomfortable jam trying to cross 4 blocks filled with weaving pedestrians bottlenecks. Parking laws must be enforced, especially on the weekends when the area receives most of its traffic. e) there are 150 tour boat concession, and almost all are uncomfortable, polluting and without a safe way to enter and exit the boats. That subject will be my next web page in catemaco.info. f) food and lodging quality is mostly mediocre and rarely receives a rave. But I`ll save that for one of the next posts. |
| Catemaco Tourism - part 5 I chuckled when the Catemaco tourism director recently admitted to a 40% occupancy rate instead of the expected 80% during the recently deceased tourist season. He blamed it on newspapers that reported that it was raining in Veracruz, and of course on insecurity. Even at 40%, I think he was stroking his thing. Insecurity, though is really becoming a cause celebre. This last month Veracruz City and State has been horrifying with murder rates not seen since the 1980's when the targets were politicians instead of narcos. I expected it, but I would much rather have been wrong. Of course the director did not mention that less than 2 years ago, the principal paid for attraction in Catemaco raised its rates from 50 to 80 pesos per person for a boat ride to see monkeys. The key element of Catemaco Tourism is boat trips around the Catemaco Lake, across Laguna Sontecomapan and to a much minor degree, along the coast. Catemaco Lake tourism began with the introduction of southeast Asian monkeys to a small island within the lake in the 1970's. Fishermen soon discovered the profitability of hauling tourists to see these monkeys, and by now there are more than 154 permissions to operate tourist boats on the lake. 52 of those are owned by cooperatives, 102 others are owned by 39 individuals, (based on outdated statistics from 2000). All but one of the boats is operated with environmentally damaging 2 cycle outboard engnes. All the boats were apparenty produced on the same set of 2 molds, with mostly 12, plus 16, 20 and 24 passenger configurations. None of the boats have flush decks, none are suitable for anyone with the least handicap, none provide adequate ingress and egress, and none are weather proof. Almost all boats are shabby, uncomfortable and driven by taciturn drivers, most of whom are not owners but employees. Additionally they have pretty much wasted and destroyed much of the Catemaco shoreline with flotsam, glass shards, every boat repair and maintenance chemical available and just your nice general household trash from visitors. Current tariffs for the 1 hour tour are 80 pesos per passenger with a minimum of 450 per boat, including 6 passengers. Other rates are negotiable, and the 100 or more shills promoting the rides are reputed to rip off the unaware. Because of inclement weather, boats operate perhaps only 2/3 of the year. The best experiences I ever had on the lake were the rental of a now gone catamaran, shared with friends to many destinations on the lake. The Cat failed, first because of importation legalities and then because of partner squabbles. Personally I would like to see a a few 50 to 100 seater party boats on the lake, suitable for lunch, dinner moonlight and "see the monkey" cruises. So called "six pack" and larger weatherproof cabin cruisers with comfortable seating, an ice chest and onboard toilet would be a welcome addition. Even a few captained speed boats would do wonders for well heeled visitors. A few rental Hobie Cats would really look great on the lake, and a few rental captained sail boats would do wonders for the lake`s skyline. But please, dear god, pass a law against unthrottled rental jet skies. I agree with a past proposal to erect a boat pier in the laguna on La Punta (proposed, studied, and supposedly funded in 2006), but ignored by succeeding administrations. Even a local Belgian's idea of importing a few hundred sail boats was a good, but I thought unfeasible, idea. The idea of a boat pier is wagging its tail again this year, with supposedly an 11 million peso construction going up near La Ola restaurant. At best this is a band aid, and a political rip off. Catemaco needs a Marina/harbor with seawalls to keep the small boats out of harm's way. If you have ever seen teams of up to 20 men sweating and cursing to haul each of the 150 plus boats on shore before a dozen weather events, you would understand my suggestion. Of course, I would like to see most of these boats disappear to be replaced with less and bigger boats. But that would mean a political war in Catemaco. |
| The Problem |
| Some Recommendations |
| The Dreams |
A Class 1 Hospital in Los Tuxtlas There are 6 public hospitals in a 30 mile area. Not one delivers first class care. Major trauma care or surgery is only available in hospitals in Xalapa and Veracruz City. Potential retirees consider this a strong negative. Status: Being considered without urgency A golf course in Los Tuxtlas A nice idea but not sustainable without substantial improvement in tourism infrastructure. Status: Proposed in 1999, now dormant Deviation of the runoff from the hills: To stop the clogging of the drainage system and make many streets passable during rainstorms. Proposed in the 1990's early 2000's. Status: Being ignored Funcional Sewage treatment plant: To stop the discharge the city's sewage into the Rio Grande de Catemaco. Proposed since the construction of the sewage system in 196?, built in 2004, modified in 2005. Status: Still not operational, being ignored Elimination of sewage contaminating principal streets and the Catemaco Lake. Demanded since the 1990's. Proposals published in 2011 Status: Still being ignored. Retention of Catemaco city property along the Malecòn: Apparently not a concern of Catemaco citizens. Most properties sold clandestinely during the last three administrations of Salvador Guerrero, Sergio Cadena and Jorge G. Azamar. Status: Almost none left to be sold. Stopping the visual contamination of the city waterfront: Apparently not a concern of Catemaco citizens. Shabby gift shops have proliferated along the waterside of the Lake, within the federal zone. Permissions date from pre 2000 and reached extremes during the G. Azamar administration 2008-2011. Status: Current administration is continuing the pollution with the permission of more fixed "puestos". Closing the Punta Tepeyaga Gap. Proposed during the Sergio Cadena administration 2005-2007, and historically by any resident of the Sierra Santa Marta. At present there is no circumference road of the lake. The north road ends at Las Margaritas and the south road ends at Mimiahua. Status: Studies were done and funded in 2006. Construction was announced in 2007, but has now disappeared from the political horizon. Construction of an airport in Los Tuxtlas. Existing airport and air service was destroyed in the 1960's by San Andrès Tuxtla politicians. Status: Construction of a new airport has been announced almost yearly since Gov. Fidel Herrera (2004-2010), reiterated by Javier Duarte (2010 -) Construction of a paved road to La Barra Primary Gulf Coast access for Catemaco Status: 1 km of 6 completed in 2008?, remainder promised but being ignored. Completion of the Catemaco to Montepio highway Principal Gulf Coast access for visitors from south Veracruz. Status: Constructed in 2006, missing 1 km segment in front of the Biology Station. Being ignored. Connection of western Catemaco to eastern Catemaco via a road from Sontecomapan to Capulteotl At present the east is only accessible via a one boat ferry in La Barra or via a torturous dirt track via Coxcoapan. Status: Proposed since the early 2000's. At present ignored. Construction of a modern, fun children's playground on the Malecòn: To entertain both resident and visiting children. Proposed by G. Azamar (2008-10) Status: Apparently not a concern of Catemaco citizens, being ignored A transparent municipal government: to stop abuses and corruption alleged to cost the municipio up to 1 million dollars per 3 year administration. Status: Apparently not a concern of Catemaco citizens, being ignored. Museum of Catemaco: To consolidate local archaeological artifacts and historical lore. Status: Variously proposed and ignored. Manglar Museum of Sontecomapan To present the status of endangered mangrove species and the biological importance of the Sontecomapan lagoon. Status: Insufficiently funded and partially constructed in 2006. Being ignored. Functional highway from the toll road at Isla to Santiago / San Andrès Tuxtla. The fastest access from central Mexico to Catemaco. Status: Apparently not a concern of Los Tuxtlas citizens. For 10 years the federal highway has been in deplorable conditions and is now not recommendable because of damage from the 2010 floods. In 2011 a replacement toll road was announced by Gov. Duarte. Construction of a connector to the toll road from Covarrubias Proposed in one of the aster plans for development of Los Tuxtlas (1999) Status: Being ignored Major Hotel in Los Tuxtlas To interconnect with touristic promotions of airlines, institutions, tourism promoters, etc. Current hotels are inadequate to handle national promotions. Status: Variously rumored, including a FONATUR development on the coast,golf courses in Sontecomapan ad condominiums at Playa Escondida. At present in dream state. Pozolapan University Creation of a one degree satellite campus of the University of Veracruz within the Pozolapan state tree nursery, to teach environmental studies. Status: Constructed in 2007. Unoccupied and ignored. State University in Los Tuxtlas Thousands of young people, yearly experience extreme financial difficulties attending campuses in Xalapa and Veracruz. Status: Proposed and under discussion 2011, unfortunately a hick town north of Santiago seems to be the front runner. Conversion of 2 cycle to 4 cycle motors of Catemaco tourist boats. 2 cycle engines are heavy environmental polluters. Status: Variously proposed, but being ignored. At present there is one boat of 150 +/- with a 4 cycle engine. . |